Lost Ansel Adams Negatives

As some of you have probably heard, some negatives that may be by Ansel Adams, and which pre-date the 1937 darkroom fire that destroyed all his early negatives, have come to light.  Rick Norsigian bought 65 6.5×8.5 inch glass-plate negatives (a size Adams was known to use in the period) at a garage sale, and has gradually come to believe they’re by Adams, and has found experts in relevant fields to agree with him.

The experts place a value of around 200 million dollars on the find, and Norsigian has already started offering 30×40 darkroom prints and smaller digital prints for sale ($7500 for the darkroom prints) from a web site.   This makes me very suspicious, of course.  Rushing to commercialization is not conducive to figuring out the truth.

Adams’ grandson has given interviews saying he doubts they are by Ansel Adams.

An interesting issue is that two handwriting experts say the writing on the envelopes the negatives were stored in matches Virginia Adams’ (based on samples known to be by her), while the grandson says the writing is not hers.  I don’t know what the state of modern handwriting identification is; I don’t know how seriously to take the evidence there.

Extracts from the experts’ reports being used to authenticate the negatives are online. Weirdly, that URL is at a different host than the first link; it appears to go to a Russian design studio.  This may mean that business partners have been brought in, I suppose.

In the report itself, and specifically in the extracts from the experts’ reports, there are a number of points that bother me.

Point 8, “THE SIZE OF THE NEGATIVES ARE UNIQUE TO ANSEL ADAMS”, is interesting.  And blatantly nonsense.  So that doesn’t look good.  (Glass dry-plate negatives of a unique size?  Does that mean he had them custom-manufactured for him, and a plate holder for the camera too?)   (Other references in the document refer to the size and the camera as fairly standard, just not that popular; a 6 ½ x 8 ½ inch Korona view camera.)

Points 2 and 3,

2.
ONE OF THE IMAGES IN THE NORGISIAN NEGATIVES IS VIRTUALLY IDENTICAL TO AN AUTHENTICATED ANSEL ADAMS PHOTOGRAPH
3.
THE LOGICAL CONCLUSION BY THE EXPERTS IS THAT THE TWO VIRTUALLY IDENTICAL PHOTOGRAPHS WERE

also bother me—taking two nearly-identical photos seems very much contrary to how Adams presents himself as working.  But I haven’t browsed the actual negative archives at U of A (I think is where they are?) to see how they speak to the matter; and these negatives are much earlier, so he might have done things differently then.

And with regard to #3, Patrick Alt is quoted as saying “AS TO WHETHER THE SPACING BETWEEN THE POINTS OF COMPARISON MAY NOT MATCH, THAT IS EASILY EXPLAINED BY HIS USING A DIFFERENT LENS, WHICH WOULD CHANGE THE SPACIAL RELATIONSHIPS BASED ON THE FOCAL LENGTH OF EACH LENS.”  Um, no; the focal length of the lens would not change the spacial relationships.  So now I’m questioning Patrick Alt’s overall level of knowledge, and whether I should care what he thinks.

So, one clear conclusion is that this document is amateurish, and has not been carefully reviewed by knowledgeable people.

Now, if in fact these represent not-previously-published works by Ansel Adams—then, for those made after 1922, the copyright is clearly still in force, and I believe would be owned by whoever owns the bulk of his copyrights, probably the foundation or a museum.  So, if the claims of the negative finder are true, his actions in selling prints are clearly illegal.

ETA: Or, maybe they’re by Earl Brooks.

Go-bag Considerations

Mulling over some things, slowly and (with luck) with a little help from my friends.

A “go bag” (also known as a “bugout bag” and a “jump kit”) is a pre-packed bag that you grab when leaving in a hurry. Depending on your job and situation, this could be for emergencies, or for relatively normal quick departures (if you make a lot of them).  People thinking this way often keep some stuff permanently in their car, and have other stuff packed to grab as they run out of their home in a hurry.

Jim Macdonald (author, EMT, and Making Light moderator) has written on the topic in various places.

Except for his consistently omitting firearms, and packing amounts of medical supplies suitable for an EMT (him) rather than an out-of-certification lowest-level first responder (me), I find his thinking sound (Jim is ex-Navy, and not by any sane definition “anti-gun”). Still, people live in different places with different terrain and climates and have different skill-sets. I think my ideal bag is different from his (and I’m sure he’d agree, at that level).

So I need to go through the analysis from the top.

First stage: what types of situations might require bugging out from your home, or from anywhere you were with your car, and how likely are they? Once these are identified, we can (in a later article) start figuring out what tools and supplies will be useful in which situations.  (While it doesn’t quite fit the definition, the stuff in the car is also what you’ll use if you come across an accident and need to help people, so those cases are included too.)

The probabilities will no doubt shift over time in response to my thinking and to comments, so please if you take issue with a probability in a comment, mention what you’re taking issue with!  Don’t just say “You’ve set the chance of civil unrest too high”; say “I think ‘very high’ is an absurdly high setting for civil unrest’.  That way your comment will make sense when I’ve agreed with you and altered my description.

Probabilities are set to “very low”, “low”, “medium”, and “high”.  Note that this is scaled; the actual probability of having to flee my home due to weather is rather low, but that’s the most likely reason I’d have to flee, and I’m calling that “high”.  In terms of emergency preparedness, it’s one of the most probable things.

Accident

Particularly car accident.  Either one I’m involved in, or one I come across when I’m in my car.

Probability: high.

Authoritarians / Assassins / Mob / Gang

Attack targeted at us.  Very low probability?  Contact lists can give information to enemies if we’re into insurrection.  Don’t forget to clean them out when necessary!  Note this category includes the government.

This may lead to a need for NOT being seen.

Probability: low.

Bomb Scare

Warning, pre-explosion.  Also chemical spill scare, etc.  Ordered to evacuate.

Probability: very low.  (low-density residential neighborhood)

Chemical Spill

Spill from truck, or commercial plant I hadn’t noticed was hazardous. Deliberate aerial application.  Ordered to evacuate.

Probability: very low. (4 blocks from the freeway, though many trucks take the bypass; no major chemical-using industry anywhere near that I’ve found).

Civil Unrest

Riots, etc.  This may result in staying in, or getting out.

Probability: low.

Earthquake

New Madrid will be huge, but it’s fairly far away.

Probability: very low.

Epidemic

Not likely to require quick departure.  Maybe if ebola has broken the boundaries?  Quarantine.

Probability: very low.

Explosion

Gas explosion for example.  Or any kind of bomb scenario. (In theory flood can be triggered by explosion, but the scenario here looks unlikely.)  Ordered to evacuate.

Probability: medium.

Fire (huge)

Could be ordered to evacuate.

Probability: low.

Fire (nearby)

Could be ordered to evacuate.

Probability: low.

Fire (our house)

Fire extinguishers can help get out even if you find it to late to kill the fire. We have smoke detectors wired to the alarm system and its siren.

Probability: medium.

Flood

Very low probability at our location of normal weather-based flooding.  Sewer backup is always possible, or major water main break. Mostly it’s at the “water in basement” level rather than the “house floats down river” level. My office, however, is in the basement.

Probability: medium.

Radiation

Fallout, dirty bomb, deliberate dissemination.  Ordered to evacuate.

Probability: very low.

Utility disruption

Gas and electric in winter for example.  Don’t have to leave that quickly.  Ordered to evacuate.  Not counting half-hour outages of electricity, which are unfortunately common.

Probability: low. (hasn’t happened anywhere I’ve lived in 55 years).

Weather

House crunched by tree or tornado, etc. Area of damage / devastation? (Fire and flood can be triggered by weather.)

Probability: high.

Metric Calendar

A few SF writers have amused themselves by having their far-future space-faring characters abandon our “months” and “years”, and do everything in days or hours. This makes a certain sense when you get away from Earth; the daily rhythm is the one most deeply built into us, and we probably will keep something like 24-hour days on ships. And we’ll certainly keep the “second”, if it’s really “us” spreading out to the stars, because it’s basic to all our science and engineering; and completely arbitrary, so it’s as good as anything else.

I’ve wanted a table of time conversions for decoding such stories for some time, and finally wrote a Perl script to create one. So, for amusement, reference, and so forth, here they are.

The actual difficulty is primarily deciding how to format them. I don’t think this is optimal yet, but it’s much better than some things I tried.

The “year” length is the official solar year. All calculations are done from seconds.

The first set of tables are powers of 10 in one of the units.

Seconds    Minutes      Hours       Days      Weeks      Years
 1e+03       16.7      0.278     0.0116    0.00165   3.17e-05
 1e+04        167       2.78      0.116     0.0165   0.000317
 1e+05   1.67e+03       27.8       1.16      0.165    0.00317
 1e+06   1.67e+04        278       11.6       1.65     0.0317
 1e+07   1.67e+05   2.78e+03        116       16.5      0.317
 1e+08   1.67e+06   2.78e+04   1.16e+03        165       3.17
 1e+09   1.67e+07   2.78e+05   1.16e+04   1.65e+03       31.7
 1e+10   1.67e+08   2.78e+06   1.16e+05   1.65e+04        317
 1e+11   1.67e+09   2.78e+07   1.16e+06   1.65e+05   3.17e+03
 1e+12   1.67e+10   2.78e+08   1.16e+07   1.65e+06   3.17e+04
 1e+13   1.67e+11   2.78e+09   1.16e+08   1.65e+07   3.17e+05
 1e+14   1.67e+12   2.78e+10   1.16e+09   1.65e+08   3.17e+06

 Seconds    Minutes      Hours       Days      Weeks      Years
 6e+04      1e+03       16.7      0.694     0.0992     0.0019
 6e+05      1e+04        167       6.94      0.992      0.019
 6e+06      1e+05   1.67e+03       69.4       9.92       0.19
 6e+07      1e+06   1.67e+04        694       99.2        1.9
 6e+08      1e+07   1.67e+05   6.94e+03        992         19
 6e+09      1e+08   1.67e+06   6.94e+04   9.92e+03        190
 6e+10      1e+09   1.67e+07   6.94e+05   9.92e+04    1.9e+03
 6e+11      1e+10   1.67e+08   6.94e+06   9.92e+05    1.9e+04
 6e+12      1e+11   1.67e+09   6.94e+07   9.92e+06    1.9e+05

 Seconds    Minutes      Hours       Days      Weeks      Years
 3.6e+03         60          1     0.0417    0.00595   0.000114
 3.6e+04        600         10      0.417     0.0595    0.00114
 3.6e+05      6e+03        100       4.17      0.595     0.0114
 3.6e+06      6e+04      1e+03       41.7       5.95      0.114
 3.6e+07      6e+05      1e+04        417       59.5       1.14
 3.6e+08      6e+06      1e+05   4.17e+03        595       11.4
 3.6e+09      6e+07      1e+06   4.17e+04   5.95e+03        114
 3.6e+10      6e+08      1e+07   4.17e+05   5.95e+04   1.14e+03
 3.6e+11      6e+09      1e+08   4.17e+06   5.95e+05   1.14e+04
 3.6e+12      6e+10      1e+09   4.17e+07   5.95e+06   1.14e+05
 3.6e+13      6e+11      1e+10   4.17e+08   5.95e+07   1.14e+06

 Seconds    Minutes      Hours       Days      Weeks      Years
 8.64e+04   1.44e+03         24          1      0.143    0.00274
 8.64e+05   1.44e+04        240         10       1.43     0.0274
 8.64e+06   1.44e+05    2.4e+03        100       14.3      0.274
 8.64e+07   1.44e+06    2.4e+04      1e+03        143       2.74
 8.64e+08   1.44e+07    2.4e+05      1e+04   1.43e+03       27.4
 8.64e+09   1.44e+08    2.4e+06      1e+05   1.43e+04        274
 8.64e+10   1.44e+09    2.4e+07      1e+06   1.43e+05   2.74e+03
 8.64e+11   1.44e+10    2.4e+08      1e+07   1.43e+06   2.74e+04
 8.64e+12   1.44e+11    2.4e+09      1e+08   1.43e+07   2.74e+05
 8.64e+13   1.44e+12    2.4e+10      1e+09   1.43e+08   2.74e+06

 Seconds    Minutes      Hours       Days      Weeks      Years
 3.16e+07   5.26e+05   8.77e+03        365       52.2          1
 3.16e+08   5.26e+06   8.77e+04   3.65e+03        522         10
 3.16e+09   5.26e+07   8.77e+05   3.65e+04   5.22e+03        100
 3.16e+10   5.26e+08   8.77e+06   3.65e+05   5.22e+04      1e+03
 3.16e+11   5.26e+09   8.77e+07   3.65e+06   5.22e+05      1e+04
 3.16e+12   5.26e+10   8.77e+08   3.65e+07   5.22e+06      1e+05
 3.16e+13   5.26e+11   8.77e+09   3.65e+08   5.22e+07      1e+06

Or, in a variant presentation, sorted by actual length of each period:

  Seconds    Minutes      Hours       Days      Weeks      Years
    1e+03       16.7      0.278     0.0116    0.00165   3.17e-05
  3.6e+03         60          1     0.0417    0.00595   0.000114
    1e+04        167       2.78      0.116     0.0165   0.000317
  3.6e+04        600         10      0.417     0.0595    0.00114
    6e+04      1e+03       16.7      0.694     0.0992     0.0019
 8.64e+04   1.44e+03         24          1      0.143    0.00274
    1e+05   1.67e+03       27.8       1.16      0.165    0.00317
  3.6e+05      6e+03        100       4.17      0.595     0.0114
    6e+05      1e+04        167       6.94      0.992      0.019
 8.64e+05   1.44e+04        240         10       1.43     0.0274
    1e+06   1.67e+04        278       11.6       1.65     0.0317
  3.6e+06      6e+04      1e+03       41.7       5.95      0.114
    6e+06      1e+05   1.67e+03       69.4       9.92       0.19
 8.64e+06   1.44e+05    2.4e+03        100       14.3      0.274
    1e+07   1.67e+05   2.78e+03        116       16.5      0.317
 3.16e+07   5.26e+05   8.77e+03        365       52.2          1
  3.6e+07      6e+05      1e+04        417       59.5       1.14
    6e+07      1e+06   1.67e+04        694       99.2        1.9
 8.64e+07   1.44e+06    2.4e+04      1e+03        143       2.74
    1e+08   1.67e+06   2.78e+04   1.16e+03        165       3.17
 3.16e+08   5.26e+06   8.77e+04   3.65e+03        522         10
  3.6e+08      6e+06      1e+05   4.17e+03        595       11.4
    6e+08      1e+07   1.67e+05   6.94e+03        992         19
 8.64e+08   1.44e+07    2.4e+05      1e+04   1.43e+03       27.4
    1e+09   1.67e+07   2.78e+05   1.16e+04   1.65e+03       31.7
 3.16e+09   5.26e+07   8.77e+05   3.65e+04   5.22e+03        100
  3.6e+09      6e+07      1e+06   4.17e+04   5.95e+03        114
    6e+09      1e+08   1.67e+06   6.94e+04   9.92e+03        190
 8.64e+09   1.44e+08    2.4e+06      1e+05   1.43e+04        274
    1e+10   1.67e+08   2.78e+06   1.16e+05   1.65e+04        317
 3.16e+10   5.26e+08   8.77e+06   3.65e+05   5.22e+04      1e+03
  3.6e+10      6e+08      1e+07   4.17e+05   5.95e+04   1.14e+03
    6e+10      1e+09   1.67e+07   6.94e+05   9.92e+04    1.9e+03
 8.64e+10   1.44e+09    2.4e+07      1e+06   1.43e+05   2.74e+03
    1e+11   1.67e+09   2.78e+07   1.16e+06   1.65e+05   3.17e+03
 3.16e+11   5.26e+09   8.77e+07   3.65e+06   5.22e+05      1e+04
  3.6e+11      6e+09      1e+08   4.17e+06   5.95e+05   1.14e+04
    6e+11      1e+10   1.67e+08   6.94e+06   9.92e+05    1.9e+04
 8.64e+11   1.44e+10    2.4e+08      1e+07   1.43e+06   2.74e+04
    1e+12   1.67e+10   2.78e+08   1.16e+07   1.65e+06   3.17e+04
 3.16e+12   5.26e+10   8.77e+08   3.65e+07   5.22e+06      1e+05
  3.6e+12      6e+10      1e+09   4.17e+07   5.95e+06   1.14e+05
    6e+12      1e+11   1.67e+09   6.94e+07   9.92e+06    1.9e+05
 8.64e+12   1.44e+11    2.4e+09      1e+08   1.43e+07   2.74e+05
    1e+13   1.67e+11   2.78e+09   1.16e+08   1.65e+07   3.17e+05
 3.16e+13   5.26e+11   8.77e+09   3.65e+08   5.22e+07      1e+06
  3.6e+13      6e+11      1e+10   4.17e+08   5.95e+07   1.14e+06
 8.64e+13   1.44e+12    2.4e+10      1e+09   1.43e+08   2.74e+06
    1e+14   1.67e+12   2.78e+10   1.16e+09   1.65e+08   3.17e+06

You may download a zip file containing the script.

Replacing A Solaris EFI Disk Label

This is kind of an adjunct to part 4 of my “Server Upgrade Chronicles”.

ZFS root pools have some requirements and best-practices at variance to other ZFS pools. One of the most annoying is that you can’t use a whole disk, and you can’t use an EFI-labeled disk. This is annoying because for most ZFS uses using a whole disk is the best practice, and when you do that ZFS puts an EFI label on that disk.

So, when you try to use in a root pool a disk you’d previously used somewhere else in ZFS, you often see this:

bash-3.2$ pfexec zpool attach rpool c4t0d0s0 c9t0d0s0
cannot attach c9t0d0s0 to c4t0d0s0: EFI labeled devices are not supported
on root pools.

What do you do then? Well, you google, of course. And you find many sites explaining how to overwrite an EFI label on a disk. And every single one of them omits several things that seem to me to be key points (and which I had to play around with a lot to get any understanding of). The fact that ZFS is what drew me back into Solaris, and that I wasn’t ever really comfortable with their disk labeling scheme to begin with, is no doubt a contributing factor.

This is going to get long, so I’m putting in a cut here. Continue reading Replacing A Solaris EFI Disk Label

Advice on Lens Brands

This got sufficient praise when I posted it as a comment to a question on LiveJournal that I’m reprinting it as an article here, where I can find it when needed.  The question was initially about Sigma vs. Nikon lenses.  I currently consider Sigma, Tokina, and Tamron to be the third-party lensmakers who sometimes make first-rate mainstream lenses (no offense intended to specialists and weird people like Zeiss, Cosina/Voigtlander, or Coastal Optics (now a division of Jenoptik Optical Systems, it looks like)).

*   *   *   *   *

Who’s ahead in which parts of their lens lineup changes over time—so one thing that influences the advice you get is the age of the adviser. I’m 55 myself :-).

For a while, zoom lenses were only made by third-party companies (absolute statements probably aren’t absolutely true, but this is how I perceived it in the 1970s). Then the camera companies made overly-conservative zooms, and the third-party companies made better zooms. This covered parts of the 80s. Then the camera companies started making first-rate zooms.

Also, the camera-companies started making second- and third-rate zooms, and even some primes. And the third-party companies didn’t always do their best anyway.

So, TODAY, IMAO, the situation is confused to the point where there’s no simple general advice. You have to specifically consider each type of lens and decide which ones are good and which aren’t. Nikon isn’t ALWAYS better or worse than Canon—or than Sigma, either. (Sigma was a third-tier company even 10 years ago, but they aren’t today.)

One thing to keep in mind is that, if you’re buying Nikon’s consumer-grade lenses like the 18-200 or the 70-300, there’s a lot less to lose going to Sigma, Tamron, or Tokina. Those aren’t Nikon’s top work. Similarly, the Sigma 120-400/4.5-5.6 may actually be better than the Nikon 80-400/4.5-5.6 (though Nikon just did or is about to update that lens, so who knows?). It’s the Nikon 200-400/4, the $5000 professional lens, that Sigma probably doesn’t have a real competitor for.

Also remember that wide-range zooms always carry compromises. You simply can’t make an 18-200 and sell it for a 3-figure price that’s first-rate throughout. However, the convenience can be important, and the quality might be good enough for you. Don’t pretend you always need “the best”—at least not while talking about a D40x :-). Be realistic, it’ll stand you in good stead; probably save you thousands of dollars. Junk is never worth it, but the very best is probably completely out of your reach, too. You HAVE TO compromise—and even the “very best” has flaws which the people who use its full capabilities all know about and have to work around. The best photographers I know don’t own a single piece of “perfect” equipment; instead they own lots of very good equipment that they fully understand. They avoid using it for the things it’s bad at.

You’re probably better off with Sigma’s pro-grade lenses than with Nikon’s consumer-grade lenses. Although every now and then, a consumer-grade lens happens to be really outstanding anyway. (As a rough guideline, fixed-aperture zooms, especially if the aperture is fast for the focal lengths, are nearly always considered pro-grade lenses. Slow, variable-aperture zooms are nearly always consumer lenses. Primes are nearly always pro-grade lenses. I believe Sigma uses the “EX” designation for what THEY think are the pro-grade lenses. But even this is, in the end, a matter of opinion.)

And if you want the very best autofocus 50mm/1.4—that’s almost certainly the Sigma; but it costs a lot more than the Nikon. (The Zeiss manual focus 50/1.4 may be better, partly depending on what you care about.)

When reading customer reviews, consider the number sold. Something sold by the tens of thousands is nearly certain to have more bad reviews than something sold by the tens. 🙂

Here’s a trick I used. I still think it’s clever. Go someplace like photo.net where you can search by the lens, and look at the pictures taken with each lens you’re considering. Some kinds of problems won’t show up at web resolution, others will. But in addition to what you can see yourself, there’s a second source of information: If a number of photographers who take really gorgeous pictures all use a particular lens, you’re pretty safe in concluding that lens is pretty good. This path led me to the Tokina 12-24/4, which indeed was a fine lens (and quite cheap), and which served me well when I was on a DX sensor.