SF Con Web-Site Design, and Promotion in General

Note: This started life as a post on a mailing list, but it was suggested that I should archive it here for future reference, and it does seem to be fairly extensive and maybe worth keeping around.

Obviously what one “likes” is significantly a matter of taste, and people will simply disagree to some extent. There are usually tendencies and trends in taste among large enough groups of people which can still be useful guides to design—if you want this group, don’t do that, if you want the other group over there, do some of this, and so forth.

What there isn’t is a large enough group of GOOD designers. I’d rate myself in the upper half of fannish web designers (I’m talking design, not implementation mechanics), perhaps optimistically; but that doesn’t put me on the scale at all in comparison to real professional designers. I worked for 4 years doing web work with some GOOD designers, and I can tell the difference. My attempts at elegant simplicity (which admittedly is hard) never quite come together, and I end up with things like this site and dragaera.info. My tastes and skills don’t lend themselves to the busier kind of designs at all.

With a GOOD designer, a site can be graphically rich and complex without creating a problem finding things on it, and it can still load decently for people with broadband (real graphic richness doesn’t work so well with dial-in; just too much data). Multiple media can be used to draw in people who like that, without hiding information from people who just want to read it.

This requires some extra work, some duplication of information, and suitable design. And it requires committing to some things and carrying them through in the course of the year. But it’s not terribly expensive, if you have the design talent available (hiring it commercially is expensive, by local con standards).

To add the media, maybe find people into that and appoint them your “web media team”, and tell them to go around and interview a department head each month or something.

Some potential members will feel more of a connection to the con having “face-to-face” informal time with the staff that way. Others will ignore it.

Got some good writers? Maybe they should blog about planning the convention and getting it ready. Again, it will make some people feel a connection they wouldn’t have otherwise. It’s also a great way to get across some of the important things about the convention—like that it’s all-volunteer. For the kind of convention I like, writing is better than streaming media to convey what it’s like, because showing people sitting around having a fascinating conversation makes for boring film (but don’t overlook the personal essay delivered as streaming video by somebody with some presence). Get new members and long-time members to write about their experience of the convention, either some specific year, or in general. Search other web sites and mailing lists for such articles, and ask permission to republish them (and you can generally link them in place even if they won’t let you republish).

In addition to making the content on the web site deeper and richer, you need to drive traffic to it. Obvious things include using your URL consistently in con materials. You need to do outreach. A minimum suggestion is to put stuff (flyers, bookmarks, business cards, postcards, as appropriate) at libraries, bookstores (especially specialty stores and those with a good SF selection!), teachers and schools, SF clubs, other conventions. Try for news coverage on public radio. Can you do something with public access television?

Remember that the site has to convince people who don’t know about SF conventions to give your event a try. You’ve been marketing for years to the ones who know about cons, and they’re already coming or have decided your con isn’t for them.  The growth potential is in people who haven’t found classic SF fandom yet.

And you need a multi-year commitment to this stuff; it takes time for the effects to build up, and you really only get to sample the results once a year (when you hold your convention).

(This is based on the assumption that your convention is basically fine, and that there are a significant number of people who would be interested but don’t know about it in your area. As you get in new members you may start to find ways you should extend your convention itself some as well, perhaps.)

For a well-established convention that feels it’s not getting its share of new members lately, I don’t think anything much smaller than this effort is likely to make much difference. A new convention is different, but a long-established one already has about all the word of mouth it’s going to get, and probably has some mis-perceptions floating around out in the population by now.

Very very roughly, what I’ve outlined above is a few hundred person-hours of EXTRA pre-con work in the first year, and perhaps half that (not nearly so much brainstorming and figuring things out, the web site structure will be in place and the design set) in the second and later years. Which no doubt explains why so few conventions have ever taken such an aggressive promotional stance. The monetary cost is low, though; mostly printing the new flyers, bookmarks, business cards, and such (I’m assuming you already have a web site, so no new cost for that). Unfortunately, those people points are probably your scarcest resource.

It’s possible (despite what I say above) that this is subject to the 80:20 rule (since the rest of the universe appears to be). I would venture to guess that the key components are regular new content on the web site, a more personal and less monolithic view into the convention, and considerable outside action to point new people to the web site.

Soft Light

What do photographers mean by “soft” light?  And how do you produce it?

This is one of the most important things in photography, important everywhere from the sunlit outdoors to the studio.  So pay attention.

Light: Science and Magic (Hunter & Fuqua), a textbook on lighting that I highly recommend, talks about this as early as chapter 2, using the term “contrast” (but talking about “soft” shadows produced by “low contrast” light). “For single light sources, the size of that source is the primary factor influencing its contrast.” (Amazon appears to have the third edition of the book, with a third author; mine appears to be the first edition; it was a present from Oleg Volk years ago when I asked if he’d run into any good textbooks on lighting.

There’s also the question “why should you care?”  I’m mostly skipping that; sometimes you want soft light, sometimes hard, and it’s useful to know how to recognize and produce each.  Deciding which you want is an artistic rather than technical decision, and I don’t write articles on artistic issues.

The softness of light is controlled by the apparent size of the light source as seen from the subject, and the distance from the subject to the background (where the shadow is cast).

Soft light—Critical Rays
Soft light—Critical Rays

The blue lines show the rays from  both extremes and the center of the light source as they pass the top of the subject, and where they hit the backdrop. The red lines show the same for the bottom of the subject. The area completely behind the subject has the darkest shadow, with the shadow gradually brightening from there to the edge (both top and bottom).

A couple of useful things come out of this immediately.  You can make light softer simply by moving the light closer to the subject, or by moving the subject farther away from the background.

simple-paths-softer
Closer and Softer—Critical Rays

Moving the light in has made the central, darkest, shadow smaller, and the zone in which the shadow gradually transitions from dark to light larger—a much softer shadow. (Moving the light closer also has other consequences—it makes the illumination on the subject brighter, and the difference between near and far parts of the subject stronger.)

Similarly, although I’m not going to draw it, moving the background farther away would make the shadows softer.

ddb-20090530-020-002-a
Wide-Angle Setting

Now, let’s illustrate this with actual light. Here’s an actual fairly soft shadow, being cast by a small flash unit quite close to the subject, with the background nearly equally far away. As you can see, precisely defining the “edges” of this soft shadow is fairly hard.

So I have marked the shadow edges, partly by eye but largely by measured image brightness.

ddb-20090530-020-002-a-marked
Wide-Angle Setting, Shadow Edges Marked

ddb-20090530-020-002-a-measureSo, here’s a full-resolution crop of the part showing the shadow and the ruler. I’m going to say the gradient goes from from 19mm to 23mm, or 4mm.

Now, I’m wondering something. Does the flash head really produce light coming off in all directions (except backwards)? Or is the beam more focused? If the beam is enough more focused, rays from the top edge won’t stray far enough down to contribute as much to the wide shadow—essentially, an efficient reflector will make the flash head behave (in terms of softness) as smaller than it physically is.

efficient-paths-hard
Parallel beams leaving an efficient reflector

If the range of directions the beams leave the reflector is small enough, the light will be much harder than the physical size of the head suggests.

So, do my flashes behave this way?  (The flash pictured is a Vivitar 285.)

ddb-20090530-020-001-a
"Wide" setting, diffusion material

Only one way to find out. Putting a couple of layers of “diffusion” material (like tissue paper) directly over the front of the flash will pretty much guarantee that the beams can leave in any forward direction. Let’s see if doing that makes the light any softer.

It’s obvious that there’s a lot more light emitted towards the sides now—the two vertical pieces of foamcore are much more brightly lit than in the first test, for example. And, visually, the shadow is clearly softer.

Here’s the marked version.

ddb-20090530-020-001-a-marked
"Wide" setting, diffusion material, shadow edges marked

And, finally, here’s the close-up of the shadow over the ruler.

"Wide" setting, diffusion material, full resolution shadow on ruler
"Wide" setting, diffusion material, full resolution shadow on ruler

I make that 20mm to 25mm, or 5mm of gradient. Since it’s clearly visually softer than the un-diffused version, it’s nice that the measurement is in line with that.

Since the flash head is focused so well, does the zoom setting make a difference?

Flash at "tele" setting, no diffusion material.
Flash at "tele" setting, no diffusion material.

Well, visually it seems to.

Flash at "tele" setting, no diffusion material, shadows marked
Flash at "tele" setting, no diffusion material, shadows marked
Flash at "tele" setting, no diffusion material, full-res shadow on ruler
Flash at "tele" setting, no diffusion material, full-res shadow on ruler

I read that as 19.5mm to 23mm, for 3.5mm, the narrowest shadow we’ve measured.

So, what have we learned here? We’ve confirmed some basic things about what makes light soft. We’ve shown that even a source as small as your flash can produce fairly soft light at close distances.

And we’ve shown that the physical size of the light source isn’t always the whole story. A light source can behave as smaller than its physical size for purposes of softness, and units based on small light sources plus reflectors are probably significantly more likely to exhibit this behavior (electronic flashes, in particular). This is why putting diffusion material over a light can make it softer, even though it isn’t making the light physically larger. It can’t, however, make the unit behave as if it were larger that its actual size.

I always wondered about putting diffusion material directly over a light source (across the front of the reflector for a studio light is the common example). It “obviously” couldn’t work, to my mind. Enough real photographers used it so I figured I must be wrong for some reason, but I think now I understand how it works.  So that’s good.

Learning Manual Exposure

Suppose you’ve been taking pictures with your digital camera for a while, and you’re wondering why some of your pictures look so much better than others.  Or suppose you’ve noticed that somebody else’s pictures look a lot better than yours, and you’ve decided it’s time for you to do something about it.  What should you learn?  Well, if you’re a beginner, it’s very likely that you need to learn to understand exposure better.

This article is my attempt to teach somebody who is in the habit of  letting the camera set the exposure how to take control of  it themselves.  I hope this will get you started with the basics. There is immensely more to be learned, but I’m not qualified to teach it all, and you don’t want to try to learn it all at once anyway, it’d just bury you in details.  If this gets you started, I’ve done my job, and you’ll be able to understand more advanced articles on exposure when you’re ready for them.

These instructions are for digital cameras. The meaning of setting an ISO differs between digital cameras and film cameras; the other two are the same.

Despite common usage, you should remember that exposure is a matter of opinion.  There is no objective “right” or “wrong”; there is only “what you want” and “not what you want”. The purpose of taking control of your exposures is to be able to get “what you want” more often.

There are three controls on your camera that affect exposure: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Each of these things affects both the exposure and one other aspect of the picture. Often getting the picture you want is a matter of balancing different effects to get a compromise you can live with.

Continue reading Learning Manual Exposure

The Mythical “Gun-Show Loophole”

Another myth perpetrated by anti-gun forces. There are no  transactions permitted at a gun show that are not permitted anywhere else. (State law controls much of private transfer of firearms; I believe what I say is correct for Minnesota, and I think it’s true in a lot of other states as well, but be sure to check what the law really is in your state before transferring any firearms! I am not a lawyer and this is not legal advice!)

What the anti-gun forces really want to do is to ban all private transfers of firearms, and force us to go through a federally licensed dealer for each one. This would drastically restrict availability of firearms to legal owners, and probably significantly raise costs. Licensed dealers are hard to find.  There isn’t one in the city of Minneapolis, for example; you have to drive out to the suburbs quite a ways to get to one. The dealers would of course charge money for this service, too. In more rural areas, there may not be one for 100 miles; since one thing “accomplished” during the Clinton administration was to revoke the licenses of a lot of part-time dealers (they targeted everybody without a full-time store-front).

Officially, the goal is to make sure the people who buy through private transactions aren’t people barred from owning firearms.

Of course, it’s already illegal for me to sell to somebody I have reason to believe isn’t allowed to own the firearm, but I’m not required (and in fact I have no means) to run a background check on the buyer. What most people I know do in Minnesota is only sell to people who have a carry permit or a “permit to purchase” issued by their local police; these documents show the person has passed the background check.  This isn’t legally required, but the gun-owners I know don’t like the idea of guns getting into the hands of bad guys any more than anybody else.

More to the point, there isn’t any evidence pointing to legal sales through private owners being a significant source of guns used in crimes.  Most of them are stolen, from stores or police cars or private homes, or smuggled into the country by gangs (who, after all, routinely smuggle in tons of other contraband; do you really believe they won’t have guns if they want guns?). Some are bought by legal purchasers who are friends of the intended illegal recipients (often their girlfriends); these transactions are called “straw purchases” and are already a felony. In other countries, raids on police and military armories have been resorted to.

Incidentally, one of the reasons gun shows are so important is precisely that there aren’t that many gun stores around.  For a lot of people, waiting for a gun show to come by is their best way to see a wide range of merchandise and be able to decide what they want to buy. At a gun show, you get to see merchandise from a lot of dealers from a very large geographic area, conveniently exhibiting in one room for your convenience.

The existence of a vibrant used market in guns helps keep prices down (back to my theme that guns shouldn’t be a tool or hobby reserved for the rich). Collectors do some speculating as well, and late in their lives often cash in much of their collection; requiring each transaction to go through a licensed dealer would be a hideous barrier to selling off a collection, and would no doubt cost these people huge amounts of money (good collections are easily worth tens of thousands of dollars, even if they haven’t invested nearly that much into them, as guns have appreciated a lot over the last few decades).

Where is the line between somebody selling off a collection, and somebody making a living as an unlicensed dealer?  There’s lots of law about this, and the BATFE is fairly active in pursuing unlicensed dealers (in fact, over-active; they lose a lot of cases, that is, the courts decide the person is not in fact acting as an unlicensed dealer). The point is, there isn’t a “problem” with unlicensed dealers. A person who sells off a collection he’s owned for a long time, without buying a lot of new guns he then sells off, is clearly a collector selling a collection, even if the numbers sold are fairly high (for a while); he’s not any sort of dealer, and shouldn’t have the extreme limits applied to dealers applied to him. Even if he happens to rent a table at a gun show to sell some of them.

I won’t even try to go into the additional complexities this would add to gifts and inheritances.

I’d love to talk to anybody who wants to understand this in more detail, has questions, or whatever, in the comments sections here, in email, in person, or however is convenient.

“Assault” Weapons

This term has two nearly-unrelated meanings.  It has a technical military meaning (where it’s a sub-caliber fully-automatic weapon for close combat), and a modern political meaning (where it’s any semi-automatic rifle that looks aggressive). I’m talking largely about the meaning given the term in the 1994 Assault Weapons Ban (which was allowed to expire in 2004).

Let’s take a quick look at those two degrees of automation. A “fully-automatic” rifle is a small machine-gun; holding back the trigger causes the rifle to continue firing (until the magazine is empty, which would be pretty quickly with a 30-round magazine and a 600 rounds per minute firing rate, for example). A “semi-automatic” or “auto-loading” rifle is one where the recoil or gas generated from one round is used to load the next round and cock the rifle, ready to fire again. With a semi-automatic rifle, you get one bang per trigger pull.

You often hear people talking about “high-powered assault weapons”. This always makes me laugh, because being low powered is part of the military definition, and the civilian definition doesn’t relate to power at all. Most of the rifles classified as “assault weapons” by the 1994 ban fired the NATO 5.56mm round (or very similar civilian .223 Remington round) or the Russian 7.62×39 round.  The .223 (650 foot-pounds at 200 yards)  is too weak to be legal for deer in many states. The 7.62×39 (900 foot-pounds at 200 yards) is just barely powerful enough to be legal for deer, putting it at the very bottom of the range of big-game hunting rounds (along with the classic .30-30 (900 foot-pounds at 200 yards)).  Both are far, far less powerful than for example the .30-06 (1700 foot-pounds at 200 yards), which is itself a midrange round, marginal except in the most expert hands for even big North American game like moose (don’t even think about taking on Cape buffalo, elephant, rhinoceros, or hippopotamus with a .30-06; yeah, I know people have done it).

Civilians can legally own machine guns in many states, if they meet the state requirements plus pay a special transfer tax and grant special permissions (including the right to conduct surprise visits at any time) to the BATFE. The transfer tax is $200.  In addition, they can (these days) only buy machine guns manufactured before 1986, so the prices are astronomical (ten thousand dollars and up). For these reasons, very very few people actually do (mostly serious hobbiests who get licensed as machine gun manufacturers so they can make their own). Legal civilian machine-guns don’t seem to ever show up at crime scenes.

The 1994 federal ban named certain specific models, and in addition to that specified features that, if a rifle had too many of, would automatically ban it.  From Wikipedia, those characteristics were:

Semi-automatic rifles able to accept detachable magazines and two or more of the following:
  • Folding stock
  • Conspicuous pistol grip
  • Bayonet mount
  • Flash suppressor, or threaded barrel designed to accommodate one
  • Grenade launcher (more precisely, a muzzle device which enables the launching or firing of rifle grenades)

So far as anybody has been able to tell, this list has nothing whatsoever to do with utility in criminal activities or even popularity among criminals.  What it is, is an attempt to ban “evil black rifles”.

The AR-15 is the most popular evil black rifle.

The AR-15 Rifle
The AR-15 Rifle

There are at least four reasons why they shouldn’t be banned:

  1. Nobody has shown any benefit to be gained from banning them.
  2. Our individual right to keep and bear arms (affirmed by the 2nd amendment to the US Constitution) certainly includes military-type weapons.
  3. They include many of the cheapest hunting rifles available (military surplus SKSs, for example). They also include many of the rifles that fire cheap (surplus) ammunition. Firearms should not be a hobby reserved for the rich!
  4. The characteristics that make them subject to the ban are not related to any danger factor.

There should be no need to show a “need” for civilian ownership of this kind of firearm; the burden of proof should rest on the other side, to show some compelling reason for banning them. But as long as I’m scribbling on the topic, I’ll point out that these rifles are widely used in marksmanship competition, home defense, varmint and small game hunting, “plinking” (informal non-competitive target shooting), and some of them for hunting larger game (where legal). Collectors also like to have examples of them, because of their military heritage.

I don’t think I can describe very well the degree to which the assault weapons ban was reviled in the gun community. Baldly, it was viewed as the first big move towards banning most guns and confiscating existing guns (a move which the gun community believes is intended by the anti-gun groups; they’ve admitted it in public now and then, so I think that’s accurate). Taking away fun, popular, widely-used guns, some of them inexpensive, for no apparent reason (and, with 10 years of statistics to sort through, no sign of any benefit), could only be something done for spite and as part of a larger plan.  It was also viewed as a clear sign that the people supporting it “just don’t get it”.  They don’t get that these guns are not especially dangerous, not widely used in crime, and are widely popular among gun people.

And despite his assurances (couched in language carefully avoiding the question), I’m afraid our president elect would support a new attempt at an assault weapons ban.  I really hope I’m wrong–because we need him for eight years.  And if he really motivates the gun rights bloc, we may not have him (or a supportive congress) that long.

Please, if you can possibly bring yourself to do it, actively resist another assault weapons ban. If it were passed, it would accomplish nothing good, and even trying and failing would be very polarizing. And it’s a distraction from much more important things that are worth fighting over, like health care, and the economy and taxes and financial regulation, and extricating ourselves from Iraq, and starting to restore our world stature. I’d love to talk to anybody who wants to know more about the subject.