A Few Confusing Photo Terms

Photography has been around for quite a while at this point, since perhaps 1835 (images had been recorded photo-chemically before that). Recently, we’ve undergone major upheavals as the commonly-used photographic technology changed from chemical to digital.

The accumulated terminology from this time, and from related fields, ends up being something of a mess.

Edit

When newspapers and magazines started using photos, the people who chose the photos were fairly quickly labeled as “editors”, in parallel with the people who chose the stories to be published.

When photography went digital, the computer term “editor,” for a program used to change text documents (including computer programs) was borrowed for programs that manipulated digital images, like Adobe Photoshop.

So now, “editing” photos can refer either to choosing photos from a set to use for some purpose, or to adjusting the appearance of photos while getting them ready for use.

Print

With daguerrotypes, the original material from the camera was exhibited (after processing), but most other chemical photographic methods produced a negative image, and an additional processing step was needed to produce a positive image for display. This also made it possible to produce multiple display images from the same photograph. Later, methods of enlarging from the negative to produce larger positive prints were invented (and better negative materials, so that the images could tolerate being enlarged).

So, a “print” was a positive copy of the original negative photo, or as a verb, the act of producing such copies.

Photographs were also widely used in publications, where “printing” meant using printing presses to produce many copies of the publication.

Today, many more photographs are looked at electronically than as physical prints, but sometimes, for lack of other terminology, photographers, especially old-school ones like me that still remember using a darkroom, might use “printing” to describe the process of manipulating a digital image file to get it to the form I want to present. (The other obvious terms are “edit”, see above, and “manipulate”, which suggests rather too strongly changing the photo to show things other than as they actually appeared.)

“Digital printing” is sometimes used (in contrast to “darkroom printing”) to emphasize that computer tools are being used.

Ansel Adams is frequently quoted saying something like “The negative is the score; the print is the performance” (Adams initially trained as a pianist). In an interview by David Sheff published in Playboy magazine (1-May-1983), on page 226, Adams actually said “Yes, in the sense that the negative is like the composer’s score. Then, using that musical analogy, the print is the performance.” Less pithy, but about the same meaning.

Particularly when talking about making prints for exhibition, there is a large range of things that a first-rate printer will consider doing. These fall in the general categories of color adjustments, density and contrast adjustments, and local adjustments (of those types, but applied to only parts of the photo).

We are sadly lacking any commonly-understood term for preparing the best version of an image.

Manipulate

In the darkroom days, “photo manipulation” meant changing a photo to show things other than as they actually were. As with movie special effects, the purpose was to entertain, usually (of course on some occasions people also altered photos as part of frauds; the Soviet Union was famous for editing people out of historical photos as they gradually became unpopular).

Greater changes were possible in the darkroom than many people today understand, especially if you used advanced techniques like dye-transfer printing. Commercial portrait studios routinely did major retouching to the faces in the photos of their clients even in black-and-white, and of course Hollywood publicity photos took that to whole new levels.

However, today, using digital tools like Photoshop, any 10-year-old with a little experience can accomplish those same effects, in less time.

The distinction between “printing” a photo and “manipulating” it was clear to most people (especially to people who never did actually manipulate photos; the line is fuzzier than one might think, and of course simply choosing camera position, direction you’re looking, and exact moment of exposure already hugely abstracts the complexity of reality into the clarity of your photograph). But taking a mole off a person’s face in a portrait, or smoothing down creases and lines, were common, nobody thought of them as unusual in commercial portraiture (most amateurs didn’t take the time to learn how to do such things).

Anyway, many of us aren’t comfortable using the term “manipulation” for ordinary preparation of a photo for display that doesn’t alter the scene shown.

“Retouching” is often used for small adjustments that aren’t thought of as changing the photo significantly, especially cleaning up people’s faces.

VR Test

“Vibration Reduction”; Nikon’s tradename for optical image stabilization. The camera and lens sense the degree of camera motion, and deflect elements in the lens to cause counter-vailing motions, resulting (if it all works right) in a sharper image. They claim about a 3-stop improvement (in terms of lower shutter speeds usable hand-held).

The rule of thumb is that you can safely hand-hold the camera down to a shutter speed of 1/(focal length).  This is a 35mm rule of thumb, and it’s the 35mm-equivalent focal length that matters here.  So for a 200mm lens on a full-frame DSLR, the safe shutter speed (by rule of thumb) is 1/200 sec. Or, with VR, about 1/30.

The following test photos are small crops from the center of the frame, containing the focus point. They were all shot hand-held, free-standing (I wasn’t leaning against anything).

1/15 VR on
1/15 VR on

1/15 VR on
1/15 VR on

1/15 VR on
1/15 VR on

1/20 VR on
1/20 VR on

1/15 VR on
1/15 VR on

1/15 VR on
1/15 VR on

1/15 VR on
1/15 VR on

I score that as 1 and 2 acceptably sharp, the rest not.

And now some examples shot with VR off.

1/15 VR off
1/15 VR off

1/15 VR off
1/15 VR off

1/13 VR off
1/13 VR off

1/13 VR off
1/13 VR off

1/13 VR off
1/13 VR off

1/20 VR off
1/20 VR off

1/15 VR off
1/15 VR off

1/20 VR off
1/20 VR off

None of the VR off examples are acceptably sharp.

So; the VR off case certainly works as expected, no hope. The VR case produced two acceptably sharp photos a full 4 stops below where it should have been okay by rule of thumb. And a lot of failures, but I was seriously pushing the limits here.

Next post will be another run, a bit more careful, with 10 shots of the same test subject for each series. But this is getting long enough and ugly enough as it is.

Tokina 12-24mm f/4

Officially it’s “AT-X 124 AF PRO DX”. Their first shot at a crop-factor DSLR lens, and quite a big success; lots of people on the net like it for example.

A previous round of test shots when I first got this lens is here.

And why am I testing this when I’m leaving DX and about to sell it? Well, I needed to test my old 28-70, and I decided I should include other lenses as sanity-checks, so I’m looking at more than one set of results.

 

 

 

 

12mm f/4

Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/4, center
Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/4, center

Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/4
Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/4

Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/4, corner
Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/4, corner

So not so shabby really, I don’t think.

 

 

 

 

12mm f/8

Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/8, corner
Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/8, corner

Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/8, center
Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/8, center

Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/8
Tokina AT-X124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 12mm, f/8

There really isn’t anything much wrong with this by f/8.

 

 

 

 

24mm f/4

Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/4, corner
Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/4, corner

Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/4, center
Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/4, center

Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/4
Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/4

The 24mm end is pretty fuzzy in the corner too, at f/4.

24mm f/8

Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/4, corner
Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/8, corner

Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/4, center
Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/8, center

Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/4
Tokina AT-X 124 Pro DX 12-24mm F4 at 24mm, f/8

Pretty nice, especially in the center. Possibly better than the Nikkor at f/5.6, even.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Nikkor 24mm f/2 AIS

Nikkor 24mm f/2 AIS corner at f/5.6
Nikkor 24mm f/2 AIS corner at f/5.6

Nikkor 24mm f/2 AIS center at 100%
Nikkor 24mm f/2 AIS center at f/5.6

Nikkor 24mm f/2 AIS full test image
Nikkor 24mm f/2 AIS full test image

I’ve had this since the Australia trip; is that 1983?  I’d gotten out to 28mm with the Vivitar Series 1 28-90 zoom, and was finding myself using the wide end of that a lot (I’d previously had a 28mm for my Miranda Sensorex, which I never liked and rarely used; I might have had one in the Pentax system too). It’s an old manual-focus lens, but it was thought to be very good at the time.  How will it stand up on modern digital?

These are somewhat cluttered — the wall wasn’t really wide enough (I guess I should have walked in closer really), so there’s stuff overlaying the bricks in the edge shot. Try to ignore the out-of-focus foliage!

And I clearly wasn’t considering this carefully, because I only shot an f/5.6 test of this one.

The results aren’t stellar; definitely soft, even at f/5.6, even in the center. Well, it’s only one test image, perhaps I focused badly or held unsteadily. Or not. On the mental list for consideration.

Cleaning the Glass on a Microtek Scanmaker 4

This will be of rather limited interest; but I failed to find the information on the web when I needed it, and when I figured it out myself (which turned out not to be hard) I made a note to perpetuate the information, as it were.

Continue reading Cleaning the Glass on a Microtek Scanmaker 4